1. This is the Mazda 3 cold air intake. Cold air meaning the incoming air is away from the engine compartment, the filter is usually placed in the bumper.

2. This Mazda 3 2.0L engine. That duct is actually to cool the battery. The ducting for the intake is actually somewhere else.

3. That's the filter below the battery duct.

4. We take out the clamps that hold the hose into the filter box.

5. The front driver wheel had to go too becasue we need access to the fender liner.

6. This is the stocke filter assembly, but that's not the end of story...

7. ... there is a secondary air box underneath the bumper which we have also have to remove.

8. This is the secondary air box, all this does restrict air flow and quiets down things.

9. After everything has been removed, we now proceed to install the intake. This is where the filter head is placed. Contrary to popular belief, this won't be a problem during floods because the water has to be up to your fog lights before it sucks in water. 

10. We then put back the air flow sensor and tighten all the clamps and make sure everything is nice and snug

11. Here's the completed intake system for the Mazda 3 2.0L, if you want to hide it, you can actually put back the battery ducting.

11. It's hard to argue with a 10hp increase from 4000 rpm onwards and a whopping 15hp increase at 5500 rpm. Just for kicks we were able to test a competitors are intake, needless to say the results speak for themselves.