1. This is the Mazda3 cold air intake. Cold air
meaning the incoming air is away from the engine
compartment, the filter is usually placed in the
bumper.
2. This Mazda3 2.0L engine. That duct is
actually to cool the battery. The ducting for
the intake is actually somewhere else.
3. That's the filter below the
battery duct.
4. We take out the clamps that hold the hose
into the filter box.
5. The front driver wheel had to go too because
we need access to the fender liner.
6. This is the stock filter assembly, but that's
not the end of story.
7. There is a secondary air box underneath the
bumper which we have also have to remove.
8. This is the secondary air box, all this does
restrict air flow and quiets down things.
9. After everything has been removed, we now
proceed to install the intake. This is where the
filter head is placed. Contrary to popular
belief, this won't be a problem during floods
because the water has to be up to your fog
lights before it sucks in water.
10. We then put back the air flow sensor and
tighten all the clamps and make sure everything
is nice and snug.
11. Here's the completed intake system for the
Mazda3 2.0L, if you want to hide it, you can
actually put back the battery ducting.
12. It's hard to argue with a 10hp increase from
4000 rpm onwards and a whopping 15hp increase at
5500 rpm. Just for kicks we were able to test a
competitors are intake, needless to say the
results speak for themselves.
